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FABRIC GLUE

This type of glue is easily available at fabric stores. There are many brands to choose from, but most of them have the same adhesive properties. Most fabric glue is rather thick in consistency and usually clear. Drying time varies but is generally never more then a few minutes for the basic cure and about an hour for it to be fully dry. It will stick to just about any type of fabric, leather, rubber, vinyl etc. Many times fabric glue can be used to attach accessories such as plastic, wood, sculpey etc. to the fabric. This tip would mainly be for 9inch customs, but could work well on a 4.5 inch figure should you want to add "realistic" clothing.

SUPERGLUE (Krazy Glue)

Superglue, or Krazy Glue as it is usually known as, can bond almost any material together. You can find superglue sold under many brand names almost anywhere! It seems to be the same thing in every different bottle.  I suggest buying the little tubes because they are cheap and easy to use. When you buy the big bottles I found that you waste too much:  the tip clogs and it ends up drying out.  Definitely not worth the extra $$$$! You can even use superglue to fill small gaps by adding baking soda to the wet glue.  The soda will bubble the glue so it cures into a foam.  I don't suggest using superglue to "clear coat" sculpey or paints (as some customizers choose to do) because of the fact that the fumes can cause a whitening effect. I only use this type of glue when I'm attaching the final figure. (Back to front). One thing to be VERY careful of is that it hardens VERY fast! It can leak through your figure if you don't apply it right. If you notice a figure tightening up, start rotating the arms waist and head. This should prevent the figure from being glued in a permanent position. Also, be careful to not get any on yourself. If you do, keep your hands AWAY from your eyes and use warm soapy water to remove it.

PLASTIC CEMENT

Plastic cement is not really a glue.  It's actually a solvent that welds 2 pieces of plastic together.  All commercial cements I know of are made for styrene and PVC.  That means it will NOT work on a figures limbs or head.  However, it is the best way to re-attach a cracked or broken torso because it actually melts the 2 halves together. I recommend only 2 types of cement. Clear liquid model cement (Testors 3502 & Tennex 7R) both are fairly easy to use.  They're both great for gluing torsos.  Next, is PVC cement.  A small can (Oatey 31017) is best as this stuff tends to go bad soon after it's opened.  PVC cement is messy, but is great for sealing sections of plastic that may have gaps.  Both types will eat paint and discolor plastic finishes, so aim well! * I personally have stopped using plastic cement. I used it when I first started doing customs, and thought you'd appreciate all the options available to you.