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______ 9" Saavik

9" Generations Kirk outfit
9" TnT Jadzia Dax

Take a 9 inch playmates female body.  Remove the uniform from a Generations Kirk (9 inch) and turn it inside out.  Place it onto the female body, and mark the sides with a pencil (or like device) as closely as possible to where you think the stitching needs to be made.  Also mark underneath the arms and along the bottom of each arm, toward the wrist.

Next, I suggest using a seam ripper or other like device to remove the belt from the uniform, so it does not get in your way while sewing.  Place this aside.  I also suggest removing the arm band that denotes years of service.  Place it somewhere safe as well.

With the uniform off the body, close the Velcro and thread your sewing machine with dark red thread.  I started at the bottom of the jacket and followed the curved line (in toward the waist and then out toward the bust) upward to the underarm, turning the jacket to stitch up the arm.  Follow the line you drew all the way to the wrist, being careful to not make the sleeve opening too tight to get the female hand through.

Optional note:  You can remove the white sleeve cuffs if you are making a ST2 Saavik, as the cuffs did not show in that film.

Once you have finished one side, take this opportunity to examine the work from the outside of the jacket, making sure you did not stitch over the black “piping” that runs along the back of the figure. If you have done this and do not like it, use a seam ripper to take out the stitching you just did, and then re-do until you get it right.  This is the part that causes headaches.  Or at least one of the parts.

Repeat the stitching and examinations on the other side.

Now... Once you are satisfied with the stitching...you must CUT AWAY the now extra material inside the Generations Kirk Jacket, otherwise the uniform will not turn right side out correctly.  When I first did t his, back when the Gen Kirks were expensive, it took a deep breath and some faith in my own work.  Again, without cutting away this material, you will get one funky, gathered and wrinkled look to your jacket.  It must be done.

Using a Rit color dye, or watered down paint, dye the white collar using a small paint brush.  The same must be done for the shoulder strap and arm band.

To finish off the jacket, use some rubbing alcohol and soak the Captain's rank on the sleeve, below the elbow.  With some work, you should be able to scrape this off now.

Now for the important part.  THE HEAD.
When this head was released by playmates several  years ago, I immediately knew I would use it to make a Saavik.  Unfortunately, my time is not what it once was, so it took this long to find the spare hours to finish her.  This head is the TT Dax head from Trials and Tribblations.

Make a mold of the head using either latex paste/cream ($9 to $13 at most hobby shops) or a two part mold maker ($25+ from various online dealers).  More information on making of the mold can be found on several hobby sites on the internet.

Once you have a mold (I used latex), and once you have managed to remove the head from within the mold without cutting or tearing the latex (build it up very thick), you then need to get out your resin ($40 from places like Bare Metal online).  I used a 2 part resin, equal parts A & B, which cures in about 5 minutes, which I found a bit too fast.  Mix your resin and pour directly into the latex mold.  (NOTE: If you used a 2 part mold agent, you may need to use a releasing agent or spray so your resin will not permanently bond to the mold.

Once the cast has settled (even though it takes 5 minutes, I give it a few hours), remove the latex mold.  I have fairly strong fingers and can peel the mold off, though every once in a while I lose patience and cut it off, making garbage out of a mold that took a few days to make.

Now...making this short...you have a white Dax head, probably with a few bubbles in it...and worst case, a missing nose or a big hole where the eye should be.  At this point you should start over.  (Or take a drink.  I don't drink, so starting over...and yelling a bit...was my only choice.)

Let's say the mold is fine.  Worry about the pinhole bubbles later.  Using a dremel ($30 to $70 at various stores) and a cutting wheel, carefully cut off the bun of her head.  Then using a grinding wheel, grind it smooth and rounded, to about the size of what her skull would look like, or lower.  You can always add more, but if you have too much, it will look like a HUGE hairdo.

Now you need to grind off the tops of the ears.  Once this is done, use a 2 part epoxy putty ($9 to $15 depending on where you buy it and what brand  you find.  I have used Magic Sculpt...not by crayola...or Milliput.)  You need to mix this in equal parts (and wash your hands carefully afterwards).  Place a small triangle at the top of each ear, being careful not to touch the other ear while doing this, as you might mess up the work you just did.  I often do one ear one day and the next another.

Shape the pointed ear as closely as possible, though you will not be able to get it perfectly.  This will be done by carving at it once it has hardened.  Once the ears are hard, and once you have carved and sanded them to the right look and shape,  you can begin sculpting on the hair, which takes a few days, as you don't want to mess up the previous layers.  I used the same epoxy putty as I did on the ears.  BE CAREFUL not to cover up your new ears.  Go a layer at a time.  I started with the bangs and sides.  Once I got the base look, I added the braids one at a time over the next few days.

Once the hair is hard, carve, shape, and sand it to the proper look.  Then using an exacto knife, add texture, but don't over do it.

The above instructions were very basic.  I tried to do this as quickly as possible.  I also did not go into painting.  If anyone needs more detailed information, please let me know. 

* Hopefully the painting description will be added at a later date.


*Saavik recipe provided by John Moore